I have an insane wanderlust. Some of you may know this about me, and some may not. Traveling is one of my favorite things to do. When I was young, meaning like a teenager, I traveled whenever I could. In college, I studied abroad in London and got passport stamps from most of what is now  the EU. After college and working for a few years, I lived in Israel and traveled the Middle East. In our early years of marriage, we traveled to the far east  multiple times, Israel and eastern Europe too. And I’ve been to Israel 25 or 30 times.

I still have a huge bucket list of places I want to see and explore. Luckily, my children inherited this Wanderlust trait, and they are some of my favorite travel companions. Over the years, I’ve morphed my husband Greg into an avid traveler as well! In November of 2023, we traveled to South Africa. I never did a blog about it - but I still can. If you’re interested, drop a comment, and it’ll inspire me to get it done.

This past November, my family and I embarked on an 8-day journey through the Marrakech corridor – a captivating region encompassing the bustling city of Marrakech, the majestic High Atlas Mountains, and the stark beauty of the Agafay Desert. I wanted to share our adventure, complete with insider tips on where to stay, what to eat, and what to experience in this magical country! Heads up - this is going to be a long one!

Planning Your Trip

I need to give credit where credit is due. A huge resource for us when we travel is our very good friend Andy Levine and his company DuVine Cycling + Adventure Co. — an international cycling and adventure company curating unforgettable travel experiences.

Andy was actually my husband’s roommate at boarding school and in college.

DuVine runs bike tours all over the world. In fact, I will brag for him, DuVine has won Travel and Leisure’s WORLDS BEST award seven times!! Andy’s suggestions about where to stay and what to do have been insanely helpful. If you are bike tour people, ABSOLUTELY check out DUVINE. Sadly, I’m not very athletic and have a very sensitive tush, so bike tours are not my thing. And I know I’m missing out. Every suggestion Andy makes is top notch. His guides, hotels, restaurants- they’re all spot on. Luckily, even though I’m not a cyclist, Andy still likes me and treats me like family!

Many of these suggestions, especially the hotels, are thanks to Andy and DuVine.

Bottom line, if you’re a cyclist traveler, DuVine is the way to go!

To Travel Agent or Not?

Generally, we are not travel agent people. Honestly, I could be a travel agent person, but my husband, not as much. We enjoy the process of planning together, talking to folks who have been to that destination, seeing what activities resonate with our interests, and mapping out our own adventure. It makes us feel more connected to the location and excited about the trip.

Of course, I wholeheartedly believe a travel advisor should be paid for their service. They work hard, provide valuable expertise, and make the process easier. In this particular case, we felt capable and comfortable spending the time needed to DIY the trip so we could stay at nicer hotels or add a few more days to our itinerary. Everything in life has choices and tradeoffs. You've got to pick the ones that work for you.

What to Pack for 8 Days in Morocco

I decided to check a bag and not try to go the carry-on route. We were visiting three distinct types of places, each with its own wardrobe needs. It could be done carry-on, but I honestly didn’t want to worry about editing it down to essentials if I didn’t have to.

Note: We visited in November, so the temperatures ranged from 40 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, which is quite a range. I packed some items like a cloth coat and leather blazer that I didn’t use a lot, but if it were colder, I’d have needed them. We lucked out and had really nice weather.

For the Mountains:

More hiking, outdoors, and pool/spa pieces. It got quite cool at night, so layers were essential.

• 1 pair running shoes

• 1 pair fashion sneakers

• 1 pair boots

• 2 sweats - one light/one heavy

• 2 hoodies - one light/one heavy

• 1 light puffer

• 3 athletic tanks

• 1 athletic legging

• 2 sports bras

• 1 cashmere wrap

for the Desert:

Dusty and very hot during the day, very cold at night.

• 1 pair rubber sandals

• 2 tees

• 1 cardigan

• 1 jean jacket

• 1 light wrap

• 2 hats

For Marrakech:

City-type clothes with comfortable footwear for walking.

• 1 pair booties

• 1 cashmere sweater

• 1 fleece blazer

• 1 going out bag

• 2 pair jeans

• 2 crossbody bags

• 1 bathing suit

• 1 coverup

• 1 leather blazer

• 1 cloth overcoat

• 2 maxi dresses

• 2 skirts

• 1 cami

• 1 button up

• 1 blazer

• 1 silk scarf

Don't forget underwear/socks/pj’s! I felt like I had more than enough to choose from and, with the options I packed, could have stayed another week or two.

Shop the Looks

10 Tips from Rafi

Before our trip, I connected with Rafi Elmaleh (rafitour@yahoo.fr), a knowledgeable guide in Morocco.

Here are his top 10 tips for travelers:

1. Water Safety: Never drink the water - only bottled or boiled (tea is ok).

2. Food Safety: Only eat cooked things - no salad, fruits, ice drinks.

3. Hotel Water: The water is purified at finer hotels and restaurants, but in the market, etc., be wary.

4. Taxi Troubles: Don’t take the cabs outside of the hotels, they’ll rip you off.

5. Bargaining is Key: Always bargain - the culture is a bargaining culture, it is expected.

6. Sun Protection: Wear sunscreen - the sun is strong, even on cloudy days.

7. Photo Fees: Don’t take photos of the snake charmers - they’ll charge you!

8. Henna Caution: Don’t get henna tattoos in the square.

9. Modest Dress: Women do not have to cover their heads or wear skirts, but they should respect modesty.

10. Currency Exchange: Have some Moroccan Dirham on you.

The Journey Begins: High Atlas Mountains

Getting There

We flew from Newark airport, and it took about 7.5 hours. Once arriving in Marrakech, we had a fast pass through passport control. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this as the lines to go through customs and passport control can take HOURS. We didn’t believe it, but the line when we arrived was backed up, almost to the plane’s exit!

hotel - Kasbah Tammadot

Our first stop was Kasbah Tammadot, one of Richard Branson's properties nestled in the High Atlas Mountains. It was breathtaking! The property felt luxurious yet authentic to the Berber traditions.

One of the highlights was the traditional Hammam – a Moroccan bath where you're scrubbed head to toe and your hair is washed. Honestly, I was in HEAVEN. This kind of thing – massages, bodywork, etc. – is my jam. However, even my family member, who is not a fan of massages, loved it! It’s a very authentic experience that is not to be missed. FYI - do not get a spray tan before going to a hammam; it will be ruined and scrubbed off.

After a relaxing Hammam, we had a lovely Moroccan dinner of tagine and couscous. As a person with diet restrictions, I appreciated that this hotel was very careful regarding allergies.

Exploring the Mountains

Our full day in the mountains was spent with Abdou, a Berber guide. We started at the weekly village market – a super authentic experience where we were the only tourists. This weekly shouk is where the surrounding villagers get all their weekly supplies.

We then went hiking in the mountains with Abdou. We saw waterfalls, rushing rivers, apple orchards, and little villages nestled into the mountainsides. We ended our hike at the home of a Berber family, who hosted us for lunch on their rooftop overlooking the mountains.

This Atlas Mountain area and many properties in the region were hit hard by the 2023 earthquake. Being invited into someone’s home and seeing it firsthand made it all the more real.

The only town in the area is Asni (where the market was located), so we stayed at the hotel for dinner and relaxed. I’m a total game nerd and bring Bananagrams with me on every vacation - so after dinner we had a competitive bananagrams match.

The following day, we had tea with Mohammad, the tea man of the Kasbah. His energy was infectious, and his sharing the importance of the tea rituals helped set the stage for the rest of our Morocco visit.

Glamping in the Agafay Desert

Argan Oil Cooperative

On the drive to the Agafay desert (about 2-2.5 hours), we stopped at a women’s cooperative that made argan oil for food and cosmetic use. I even got to try my hand at grinding it!

Desert Adventures

The Agafay is more of a rocky desert, not powder sand like the Sahara. It’s more similar to the Negev desert in Israel. We opted for an ATV adventure, which was really fun! We also had a pottery class with a local artisan who communicated solely with Google Translate on his iPhone – it was hysterical!

Glamping Experience

We stayed at a glamping desert camp where the tents had real beds, plumbing, and generators. Honestly, it was only okay, and I could have done without the overnight part. In all fairness, the weather was not great - it was very windy and cloudy, so we didn’t experience that kind of clear, see all the stars at night in the desert experience you dream of. 

A day trip from Marrakech might be a more practical option, especially if you're short on time.

Marrakech: A City of Wonders

La Mamounia Hotel

Our final stop was Marrakech, where we stayed at the historic La Mamounia. The property is insanely spectacular with 2 hectares of gardens, restaurants, spa/hammam, state-of-the-art exercise facility, tennis courts, bars, outdoor pool, and gorgeous Moroccan tilework everywhere. My kids said the breakfast/lunch buffet was the “most insane” they’ve ever seen.

Fun fact: If you watched the Netflix show Inventing Anna, this is the hotel Anna Delvey stays at when visiting Morocco!

Jewish Quarter: History and Heritage

We started with an evening walk to the Jemaa el-Fnaa square at night. It was really interesting to see how everything stopped when the evening call to prayer was sounded. This square is bustling with food stalls, snake charmers, henna artists, and folks selling tchotchkes. I was glad to have our guide, Jamal, with us.

The next day, we explored the Jewish quarter, or Mellah. The Lazama Synagogue is a must-see, with photos and documents showcasing Jewish life in the Mellah dating back to the late 1400s. The Miaâra Jewish Cemetery, dating back to the 12th century, is another significant site.

Bahia Palace: Architectural Splendor

The Bahia Palace is a stunning palace with incredible tile work and architecture. It's a beautiful example of Moroccan craftsmanship and history.

Souks: A Shopper's Paradise

The souks of Marrakech are a vibrant maze of stalls selling everything from rugs and leathers to pottery and caftans. I fell in love with a caftan from Maison Du Caftan, and we also picked up some smaller treasures like an antique Berber bracelet, natural remedies from a Berber pharmacy, a tagine, and Ras el hanout spice.

Dar Yacout: A Culinary Delight

The BEST meal we had was dinner at Dar Yacout. It’s housed in an authentic Riad in the Medina. The menu is price fixed and family style. They offer kosher or vegetarian options as well. There is a beautiful rooftop terrace overlooking the city where we had pre-dinner drinks, and musicians played throughout the dinner. It was truly a special evening.

Medersa Ben Youssef: A Glimpse into the Past

Medersa Ben Youssef is an ancient Islamic school with stunning architecture and tile work that transports you through the centuries.

Bracha Coffee Shop: Instagrammable and Delicious

This coffee shop was a great place for the IG feed, very photo-friendly. And the coffee was delicious and VERY strong.

El Fenn Hotel: Hip and Happening

The El Fenn is a very hip, cool, and artsy hotel owned by Vanessa Branson. The art collection is incredible, the concept store carries a very curated offering, including the pottery brand We are Roxas. We had dinner on the rooftop and it was very happening - I felt like I was in Miami more than Morocco.

Majorelle Gardens, Berber Museum, YSL Museum: Art and Culture

The Majorelle Gardens are beautiful, but I especially loved the Berber Museum. The YSL Museum was also a highlight for a fashion nerd like me.

Cooking Class: Hands-On Moroccan Cuisine

We learned to make Pastilla and Tagine in a local home. It was a fun and delicious way to experience Moroccan culture.

Zellige Tile Workshop: A Trip Highlight

We spent about 3 hours with Hassan from Art Travel Morocco and a group of tile artisans, learning about the intricate process of creating zellige tiles. This was a trip highlight – getting off the beaten path, interacting with real people, and having a hands-on experience.

Final Thoughts

Morocco truly captivated my senses and left me with a longing to return. The diverse landscapes, rich culture, and warm hospitality create an unforgettable experience. I hope this blog post inspires you to explore this magical country for yourself!

What are your favorite travel memories? Share your thoughts in the comments below!